Napriek v\u0161etk\u00fdm existuj\u00facim obmedzeniam a svojej konzervat\u00edvnosti sa Reinheitsgebot men\u00ed a umo\u017e\u0148uje nemeck\u00fdm pivovarom vyr\u00e1ba\u0165 ve\u013emi rozmanit\u00e9 pivo, a to nielen pre experiment\u00e1torov. Ale aj v tejto situ\u00e1cii sa mnoho nemeck\u00fdch v\u00fdrobcov a milovn\u00edkov piva vyjadruje, ak nie proti z\u00e1konu, tak aspo\u0148 za jeho zmenu.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\nTakto \u017eij\u00fa v Eur\u00f3pe a v Nemecku, kde sa varenie piva za\u010dalo pred ve\u013emi dlhou dobou. Z\u00e1rove\u0148 v Belgicku, kde sa s kvasnicami zaobch\u00e1dza ve\u013emi vo\u013ene a do piva sa neboja prid\u00e1va\u0165 \u010doko\u013evek \u2014 sa na to v\u00f4bec silno neob\u0165a\u017euj\u00fa. A varia v\u00fdborn\u00e9 pivo, ktor\u00e9 sa pred\u00e1va po celom svete.<\/p>\n
A \u010do v Rusk\u00e9 feder\u00e1cii? Tu je to dos\u0165 smutn\u00e9.<\/p>\n
Preto\u017ee v Ruskej feder\u00e1cii existuj\u00fa dva z\u00e1kony, presnej\u0161ie \u2014 normy: GOST 31711-2012, ktor\u00fd sa vz\u0165ahuje na pivo, a GOST 55292-2012, ktor\u00fd sa t\u00fdka \u201epivn\u00fdch n\u00e1pojov\u201c. \u00daprimne ver\u00edm, \u017ee dom\u00e1ci z\u00e1konodarcovia a autori rusk\u00fdch \u0161tandardov pivovarn\u00edctva chceli nap\u00edsa\u0165 svoj Reinheitsgebot s preferenciami a prostit\u00fatkami \u2014 ale dopadlo to ako zvy\u010dajne. Rozoberme hlavn\u00e9 perly.<\/p>\n
Toto by malo by\u0165 v pive pod\u013ea GOST 31711-2012.<\/b>![\"O](\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/f3e6f5945e935bf6ef4922cbeb534157.jpeg\")
\n
\na toto v\u0161etko \u2014 pivo pod\u013ea normy 55292-2012<\/b>![\"O](\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/04f70cb14e473ab7d0c3052d03a2c4e4.jpeg\")
\n
\nA \u010do na to poveda\u0165? V skuto\u010dnosti je pivn\u00fd n\u00e1poj plnohodnotn\u00e9 a norm\u00e1lne pivo, pri jeho v\u00fdrobe sa pou\u017eilo nie\u010do mimo klasick\u00fdch ingredienci\u00ed: napr\u00edklad citr\u00f3nov\u00e1 k\u00f4ra, korenie alebo ovocie. A tak pod podivn\u00fdm n\u00e1zvom \u201epivn\u00fd n\u00e1poj\u201c sa na pultoch obchodov objavilo pivo, ktor\u00e9 je star\u0161ie ako v\u0161etky normy, RF a dokonca aj Reinheitsgebot. Pr\u00edklady: Hoegaarden \u2014 jeho predchodca sa varil v rovnomennom fl\u00e1mskom meste (dne\u0161n\u00e9 Belgicko) u\u017e od roku 1445 a u\u017e vtedy sa v \u0148om pou\u017e\u00edvali koriander a pomaran\u010dov\u00e1 k\u00f4ra. Zauj\u00edma sa Hoegaarden o to, ako ho nazvali? Mysl\u00edm, \u017ee mu to je jedno. Na\u0161a nedohliadaj\u00faca spotrebite\u013eka, pre\u010d\u00edtaj\u00fac si na f\u013ea\u0161i n\u00e1pis, okam\u017eite prepadne zlo\u017eit\u00fdm my\u0161lienkov\u00fdm oper\u00e1ci\u00e1m oh\u013eadom svetov\u00e9ho sprisahania a toho, \u017ee \u201epivo posielaj\u00fa do roztrhnutia, NIE JE PRAV\u00c9!\u201c Mimochodom, v Rusku sa Hoegaarden var\u00ed priamo v Rusku \u2014 ale k tomu sa dostaneme nesk\u00f4r.<\/p>\n
Ak teda na cene alebo etikete vid\u00edte slov\u00e1 \u201epivn\u00fd n\u00e1poj\u201c, vedzte, \u017ee m\u00e1te pred sebou pravdepodobne ve\u013emi zauj\u00edmav\u00e9 pivo, ktor\u00e9 stoj\u00ed minim\u00e1lne za vysk\u00fa\u0161anie. Iba ak v zlo\u017een\u00ed uvid\u00edte pam\u00e4tn\u00e9 chemick\u00e9 ar\u00f3my a farbiv\u00e1 \u2014 m\u00e1te pred sebou mo\u010d typu \u201eGarage\u201c, ktor\u00fa by ste nemali bra\u0165 do r\u00fak v\u00f4bec.<\/p>\n
Ale pokra\u010dujme \u010falej! Preto\u017ee rozpad v sovietskom \u0161t\u00fdle nie je v z\u00e1chodoch, ale v hlav\u00e1ch, norma sa sna\u017e\u00ed ve\u013emi pr\u00edsne obmedzi\u0165 druhy piva a jeho zlo\u017eenie. Rovnako ako \u201epivn\u00e9 n\u00e1poje\u201c. Vedzte, %username%, \u017ee:
\n![\"O](\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/efa0c85f0cd4ba64e49a4671fff2fcb6.jpeg\")
\nV skuto\u010dnosti je v\u0161etko e\u0161te pr\u00edsnej\u0161ie<\/b>![\"O](\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/966a0a764c089289487c129c7f3e57e8.jpeg\")
\n![\"O](\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/56270e274d0995d5ce7df7c29985553c.jpeg\")
\n![\"O](\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/f72b1a9009fa75224b231253e1fe4832.jpeg\")
\n![\"O](\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/9c0138ef52a9d44bf2c232c08aeb4cd6.jpeg\")
\n![\"O](\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/93befc3e6161badfb553f2efae1c2e0c.jpeg\")
\n![\"O](\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/0b90920feda1dec18accb247f4e348c6.jpeg\")
\n
\nTo znamen\u00e1, \u017ee krok do\u013eava alebo doprava \u2014 pokus o utek a skok \u2014 pokus odletie\u0165.<\/p>\n
\u0164a\u017eko sa mi o sile a h\u013abke tohto nezmyslu diskutuje, ale dotknem sa len jednotiek EBC \u2014 to je farba piva pod\u013ea European Brewing Convention. Pr\u00e1ve tento \u00fadaj sa pou\u017e\u00edva v norm\u00e1ch, hoci cel\u00fd svet u\u017e pre\u0161iel na nov\u0161\u00ed Standard Reference Method (SRM). Ale to nie je d\u00f4le\u017eit\u00e9 \u2014 veli\u010diny sa medzi sebou \u013eahko prev\u00e1dzaj\u00fa pod\u013ea Morejovej formuly: EBC = 1,97 x SRM (pod\u013ea novej \u0161k\u00e1ly EBC) alebo EBC = 2,65 x SRM \u2013 1,2 (pod\u013ea starej \u0161k\u00e1ly EBC \u2014 a \u00e1no, s SRM je v\u0161etko ove\u013ea jednoduch\u0161ie).<\/p>\n
Mimochodom, SRM sa niekedy naz\u00fdva aj Lovibondova \u0161k\u00e1la na po\u010des\u0165 prv\u00e9ho objavite\u013ea Jozefa Williama Lovibonda, ktor\u00fd, ako pivovarn\u00edk, vymyslel pou\u017e\u00edvanie kolorimetra na charakteriz\u00e1ciu farby piva a vlastne aj \u0161k\u00e1ly. <\/p>\n
Jednoducho, vyzer\u00e1 to takto:
\n![\"O](\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/ef0665019eaeefb94507b0c1be7ae715.jpeg\")
\nAk si si pozorne \u010d\u00edtal a sledoval, %username%, potom si pochopil, \u017ee v\u0161etko pod EBC 31 je svetl\u00e9 pivo a v\u0161etko nad n\u00edm je tmav\u00e9. Teda:
\n![\"O](\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/9b641d1982df7e3c1ebcfa741a50f92c.jpeg\")
\n
\nS \u00factou, ale tak\u00e1 klasifik\u00e1cia je bl\u00e1znovstvo, \u010faleko od reality \u2014 av\u0161ak celkom od \u201etvorcov term\u00ednu 'pivn\u00fd n\u00e1poj'\u201c. Ako mysl\u00ed\u0161, ktor\u00fd z t\u00fdchto dvoch poh\u00e1rov piva obsahuje svetl\u00e9 pivo?
\n![\"O](\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/a19a52cfad2551d28f7584482e59645c.jpeg\")
\nOdpove\u010f je tu<\/b>V\u013eavo Guinness Nitro IPA, vpravo Saldens Pineapple IPA. Na plechovk\u00e1ch oboch druhov je nap\u00edsan\u00e9 \u201esvetl\u00e9 pivo\u201c.
\nA mimochodom, English Pale Ale (doslovne: bled\u00fd anglick\u00fd e\u013e) Fuller\u2019s London Pride je pod\u013ea normy tmav\u00e9 pivo. C\u00edtim sa ako daltonista.<\/p>\n
\nMimochodom, na z\u00e1ver rozhovoru o pr\u00edsad\u00e1ch a predt\u00fdm, ako prejdeme k \u010fal\u0161ej \u010dasti, kde sa budeme rozpr\u00e1va\u0165 o technol\u00f3gii, rozoberieme e\u0161te jednu d\u00f4le\u017eit\u00fa skratku v opise zlo\u017eenia a kvality piva. U\u017e vie\u0161 o IBU, SRM\/EBC. Je \u010das porozpr\u00e1va\u0165 sa o ABV.<\/p>\n
ABV nie je pokus pripomen\u00fa\u0165 ti abecedu, ke\u010f si po troch litroch sa rozhodol nie\u010do pre\u010d\u00edta\u0165 \u2014 a vyskytovala sa etiketa \u2014 to je Alcohol By Volume (ABV). Na etikete m\u00f4\u017ee\u0161 stretn\u00fa\u0165 4,5% ABV, 4,5% vol. alebo 4,5% ob. \u2014 to v\u0161etko znamen\u00e1 objemov\u00e9 percent\u00e1 etanolu v n\u00e1poji, a \"ob.\" nie s\u00fa m\u00fdtick\u00e9 \"obraty\", ale pr\u00e1ve \"objemov\u00e9\". A \u00e1no \u2014 existuj\u00fa aj \u201estupne pevnosti\u201c \u2014 historick\u00e9 veli\u010diny, ktor\u00e9 teraz nikto nepou\u017e\u00edva, a preto \u201epivo 4,5 stup\u0148ov\u201c je jednoducho 4,5% ob. vo v\u00fdkone n\u00e1\u0161ho Ve\u013ek\u00e9ho a Mocn\u00e9ho.<\/p>\n
Ak \u0165a zauj\u00edma hist\u00f3ria stup\u0148ov a cen\u00ed\u0161 D.I. Mend\u011blejeva<\/b>Obsah alkoholu v n\u00e1pojoch v\u017edy zauj\u00edmal \u013eud\u00ed, najm\u00e4 ke\u010f sa objavila ot\u00e1zka ceny. Johannes Georg Tralles \u2014 nemeck\u00fd fyzik, zn\u00e1my vyn\u00e1lezom alkoholomera, nap\u00edsal v roku 1812 z\u00e1kladn\u00fd v\u00fdskum \"Untersuchungen \u00fcber die specifischen Gewichte der Mischungen ans Alkohol und Wasser\" (\"V\u00fdskumy o \u0161pecifick\u00fdch hmotnostiach zmes\u00ed alkoholu a vody\").
\nStupne Trallesa zodpovedaj\u00fa s\u00fa\u010dasn\u00e9mu objemov\u00e9mu percentu alkoholu v n\u00e1poji. Napr\u00edklad, 40 stup\u0148ov Trallesa by malo zodpoveda\u0165 40 % obsahu alkoholu pod\u013ea objemu. Av\u0161ak, ako uk\u00e1zal D. I. Mendelejev, to, \u010do Tralles pova\u017eoval za \u201ealkohol\u201c \u2014 \u010dist\u00fd alkohol, bol v skuto\u010dnosti jeho vodn\u00fd roztok, kde bezvod\u00e9ho alkoholu bolo len 88,55 %, tak\u017ee 40-stup\u0148ov\u00fd n\u00e1poj pod\u013ea Trallesa zodpoved\u00e1 35,42 % \u201epod\u013ea Mendelejeva\u201c. Tak sa rusk\u00fd vedec historicky ako prv\u00fd na svete stretol s nedorozumen\u00edm zo strany zahrani\u010dn\u00fdch bur\u017eujov.<\/p>\n
V 40. rokoch 19. storo\u010dia akad\u00e9mik G. I. Hess na objedn\u00e1vku rusk\u00e9ho vl\u00e1dy vytvoril met\u00f3dy a pr\u00edstroj na ur\u010denie mno\u017estva alkoholu vo v\u00edne. Predt\u00fdm sa hustota merala pod\u013ea syst\u00e9mu Trallesa, ako aj \u201edestil\u00e1ciou\u201c. Napr\u00edklad, zmes alkoholu a vody, ktor\u00e1 stratila polovicu objemu pri destil\u00e1cii (asi 38 % alkoholu), sa naz\u00fdvala polugar (pod\u013ea \u201eCelkov\u00e9ho zborn\u00edka z\u00e1konov Rusk\u00e9ho imp\u00e9ria\u201c z roku 1830: \u201eur\u010duje sa tak, aby, vliata do \u0161t\u00e1tnej schv\u00e1lenej destila\u010dnej n\u00e1doby, vzorka pri destil\u00e1cii vyhoretla na polovicu\u201c). V predstave ministra financi\u00ed Kankrina z roku 1843 sa uv\u00e1dzalo, \u017ee destil\u00e1cia v\u00edna a anglick\u00e9 hydrometre nezabezpe\u010duj\u00fa presnos\u0165 merania, a Trallesov alkoholomer vy\u017eaduje na v\u00fdpo\u010det hustoty po\u010d\u00edtania, a preto by sa mala prida\u0165 syst\u00e9m Trallesa forma prisp\u00f4soben\u00e1 pre Rusko.<\/p>\n
V roku 1847 Hess vydal knihu \u201e\u00da\u010dtovanie alkoholov\u201c, v ktorej sa uv\u00e1dzali pravidl\u00e1 pou\u017e\u00edvania alkoholometra s tabu\u013ekami na ur\u010denie hustoty a pomerov zrie\u010fovania alkoholu. Druh\u00e9 vydanie v roku 1849 tie\u017e obsahovalo preh\u013ead hist\u00f3rie a te\u00f3rie merania hustoty. Alkoholometrick\u00e9 tabu\u013eky Hess uviedli merania pod\u013ea Trallesa v kombin\u00e1cii s ruskou trad\u00edciou prepo\u010dtu alkoholu na polugar. Alkoholomer Hess ukazoval nie obsah alkoholu, ale \u010d\u00edslo viedier vody, ktor\u00e1 mala teplotu 12,44 \u00b0R (stupe\u0148 R\u00e9aumura, 15,56 \u00b0C), ktor\u00e9 bolo potrebn\u00e9 prida\u0165 k 100 viedrom sk\u00faman\u00e9ho alkoholu, aby sa z\u00edskal polugar, definovan\u00fd ako 38 % alkoholu (hoci aj tu s\u00fa spory). Podobn\u00fd syst\u00e9m sa pou\u017e\u00edval v Anglicku, kde \u0161tandardom bol proof (57,3 % alkoholu).<\/p>\n
Jednoducho povedan\u00e9, Hess to iba skomplikoval, a preto \u010fakujeme Dmitrijovi Ivanovi\u010dovi, ktor\u00fd zaviedol pojem spr\u00e1vnych objemov\u00fdch percent alkoholu.<\/p>\n
Odkia\u013e poch\u00e1dza alkohol, je ka\u017ed\u00e9mu jasn\u00e9: je to z\u00e1kladn\u00fd produkt alkoholov\u00e9ho fermenta\u010dn\u00e9ho procesu, preto sa z\u00edskava z potravy kvasiniek - cukru. Cukor sa p\u00f4vodne dost\u00e1va zo sladu. Niekedy zostane cukor, ale kvasinky u\u017e vy\u010derpali svoj potenci\u00e1l. V takom pr\u00edpade pivovarn\u00edk prid\u00e1va \u010fal\u0161iu d\u00e1vku kvasiniek. Ak v\u0161ak chceme pivo urobi\u0165 v\u00fdrazne silnej\u0161\u00edm, m\u00f4\u017ee by\u0165 vo varenej mladine nedostatok cukrov na spracovanie, a to u\u017e je probl\u00e9m. Prid\u00e1va\u0165 slad nem\u00e1 zmysel, preto\u017ee pomer druhov sladu ovplyv\u0148uje nielen alkohol - to sme u\u017e preberali. A \u010do teraz?<\/p>\n
Existuj\u00fa dva popul\u00e1rne sp\u00f4soby. Prv\u00fd a najpou\u017e\u00edvanej\u0161\u00ed: jednoducho da\u0165 kvasink\u00e1m najjednoduch\u0161\u00ed sladov\u00fd extrakt (nie slad!), malt\u00f3zu, med alebo nie\u010do in\u00e9 sladk\u00e9. V lacnej\u0161\u00edch typoch sa dokonca pou\u017e\u00edva len cukor - teda sachar\u00f3za, ale vtedy je to pr\u00edli\u0161 sladk\u00e9. Aby pivo nebolo pr\u00edli\u0161 presladen\u00e9, pivovarn\u00edk m\u00f4\u017ee pou\u017ei\u0165 kukuri\u010dn\u00fd sirup alebo dextr\u00f3zu v akomko\u013evek vyjadren\u00ed, preto\u017ee ich pridanie m\u00e1 slab\u00fd vplyv na kone\u010dn\u00e9 chu\u0165ovo-aromatick\u00e9 vlastnosti. V podstate, ak prid\u00e1me jednoduch\u00e9 cukry - dostaneme viac alkoholu. Ale je tu e\u0161te jeden probl\u00e9m.<\/p>\n
Pri dosiahnut\u00ed ur\u010ditej koncentr\u00e1cie alkoholu kvasinky nevydr\u017eia a zomr\u00fa vo vlastn\u00fdch produktov \u017eivotnej \u010dinnosti - nie, neznie to pekne, tak teda: op\u00edjaj\u00fa sa - tie\u017e akosi neznelo - skr\u00e1tka: umieraj\u00fa. Prest\u00e1vaj\u00fa pracova\u0165, a niekedy \u00faplne zahyn\u00fa. Aby sa tomu predi\u0161lo, v\u00fdrobcovia siln\u00e9ho piva pou\u017e\u00edvaj\u00fa \u0161peci\u00e1lne kol\u00f3nie kvasiniek. Niekedy, mimochodom, v tak\u00fdchto pr\u00edpadoch pivovarn\u00edci pou\u017e\u00edvaj\u00fa v\u00ednne kvasinky. Ale aj v tomto pr\u00edpade nemo\u017eno prekro\u010di\u0165 hranicu 12-13%. A preto\u2026<\/p>\n
Druh\u00fdm sp\u00f4sobom, ako zv\u00fd\u0161i\u0165 obsah alkoholu, je zv\u00fd\u0161enie koncentr\u00e1cie alkoholu odstr\u00e1nen\u00edm \u010dasti vody mrazen\u00edm. Tak sa vyr\u00e1ba nemeck\u00e9 pivo eisbock. Ale v skuto\u010dnosti je pivo silnej\u0161ie ne\u017e 12-13% naozaj vz\u00e1cnos\u0165.<\/p>\n
D\u00f4le\u017eit\u00fd bod: nikto nebude prid\u00e1va\u0165 do piva alkohol. Nikdy. Po prv\u00e9, to si vy\u017eaduje \u010fal\u0161ie licencie na pou\u017eitie potravinov\u00e9ho alkoholu, po druh\u00e9 \u2014 oddel\u00ed a sp\u00f4sob\u00ed nestabilitu piva. A pre\u010do kupova\u0165 to, \u010do sa aj tak z\u00edskava po\u010das kvasenia? \u00c1no, niekedy pivo naozaj vonia po alkohole, ale to je d\u00f4sledok nie n\u00e1hodn\u00e9ho prid\u00e1vania etanol, ale iba pr\u00edtomnosti v pive \u0161pecifick\u00fdch esterov (pam\u00e4t\u00e1\u0161 si na rozhovor o zlo\u017eit\u00fdch esteroch?)<\/p>\n
Mimochodom, op\u00e4\u0165 posielam l\u00fa\u010de nen\u00e1visti rusk\u00e9mu GOST 31711-2012:
\n![\"O](\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/2bc4bcf9f2c37a1d7f2e149b27d507fa.jpeg\")
\nOsobne mi nie je jasn\u00e9 \u201enie menej\u201c a \u201e+-\u201c \u2014 to znamen\u00e1, \u017ee m\u00f4\u017eem pred\u00e1va\u0165 pivo silnej\u0161ie v rozmedz\u00ed 0,5% a nie slab\u0161ie? \u00c1no, a t\u00e1 \u010darovn\u00e1 maxim\u00e1lna \u010d\u00edslica sily piva 8,6% \u2014 tie\u017e poch\u00e1dza z tohto dokumentu. A preto v\u0161etko, \u010do je silnej\u0161ie \u2014 je \u00faplne nepochopite\u013en\u00e9. Nemci sa tomu nahlas smej\u00fa. Skr\u00e1tka, neviem a pozdravujem GNU \u201eVNIIPBIVP\u201c Rusk\u00e9ho po\u013enohospod\u00e1rskeho in\u0161tit\u00fatu \u2014 tvorcu normy.<\/p>\n
Predsa len sa podaril dlh\u00fd \u010dl\u00e1nok. Dos\u0165!<\/p>\n
A zd\u00e1 sa, \u017ee \u013eud\u00ed t\u00e1to cel\u00e1 historia omrzela. Preto si vezmem ur\u010dit\u00fa pauzu, a ak sa predsa len uk\u00e1\u017ee, \u017ee je z\u00e1ujem \u2014 na bud\u00face sa stru\u010dne porozpr\u00e1vame o technol\u00f3gii varen\u00e9ho piva, dozvieme sa tajomstv\u00e1 nealkoholick\u00e9ho piva a mo\u017eno rozoberieme e\u0161te p\u00e1r m\u00fdtov. Ke\u010f\u017ee nie som technol\u00f3g, rozbor technol\u00f3gie bude ve\u013emi laick\u00fd, ale d\u00fafam, \u017ee budem schopn\u00fd vysvetli\u0165 hlavn\u00e9 f\u00e1zy a ot\u00e1zky o obale, filtr\u00e1cii a pasteriz\u00e1cii.<\/p>\n
Ve\u013ea \u0161\u0165astia, %username%!<\/p>\n
![\"O](\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/df28043b2372fa6a67e57bdb0f828228.jpeg\")
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Zdroj: habr.com<\/p>","protected":false,"gt_translate_keys":[{"key":"rendered","format":"html"}]},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
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